Register  
You are here:  Home  
 Buena Vista Rock Climbing
 
ForumForumGeneralGeneralBoulderingBoulderingThe Flake ProjectThe Flake Project
Disabled 
Previous
 
Next Next
New Post
 5/26/2008 1:08 PM
 

This is an interesting topic. the chalked up flake problem that goes right up the main traverse area at Dorthys (ie "rainbow rock, buena vista bouler, etc). anyways i have seen multiple people try and try and only get to the top flake, until this summer, one of my buddies dynoed to a small edge from the top of the flakes.

Anyway from my knowledge it has never been sent, anyone know the history of this project?

New Post
 5/26/2008 4:39 PM
 

yeah,
bob murray sent it back in the day barefooted. if not barefooted, he did much climbing without shoes. the problem is awesome, really classic from start to finish. really intensive and precise footwork to do it static.

If you are into the grades it is V7. but ive never seen it in a guidebook. probably because i dont have any for the area.
enjoy!

New Post
 5/26/2008 4:41 PM
 

i think your thinking of the climbing issue 154, from 1996 i believ. it has bob "traversing" at dorthy's barefoot, on the right and lower of the "flake".

in the picture you can see the upper flakes at that time have no chalk on them, and murray clearly has chalk on his hands and a large one hanging off his hips. so im sure the flake would have chalk on them if bob would have tried it.

my earliest times bouldering at dorthy's is around 1999, and even then the uppermost flake was not chalked. sometime from 2000-2002 a tick mark appeared just below two small crimps. no chalk on them, so me and a couple of locals that bouldered there regularly started trying. after a summer of trying, a few people were able to match hands on the upper most flake and fall off.

a few years later, absent because of college, me, a few friends met up with ruben lewis, and projected again. again the high point was the upper most flake....

then this past summer, i arrived again, this time i met up with leadville local john crum, ruben, matt moore, and a couple of summer raft guides. i chalked up the two possible crips, and the projecting begain. to my knowledge that was the first time the crimps were ever used, a deadpoint dyno from the upper most flake to the crimp, and was only stuck for a fraction of a second....V7 my ass. there are still 2-3 more moves, and the mantle might be the overall crux.

 

Disabled 
Previous
 
Next Next
ForumForumGeneralGeneralBoulderingBoulderingThe Flake ProjectThe Flake Project





Membership Membership:
Latest New User Latest: TomPerkins
Past 24 Hours Past 24 Hours: 0
Prev. 24 Hours Prev. 24 Hours: 0
User Count Overall: 70

People Online People Online:
Visitors Visitors: 4
Members Members: 0
Total Total: 4

Online Now Online Now:

Arkansas Valley Climbing including Camp Hale
Out of print.
New addition coming in 2010!

Independence Pass Rock Climbing II
Independence Pass
Rock Climbing II

Camp Hale Rock Climbing
NEW!
Camp Hale Rock Climbing

Home  |  Resources  |  Guide Book  |  Shop
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Site by AWebStudio  |   Copyright 2008 - 2010 Aspen Climbing Guides, LLC
Privacy Statement  |  Terms Of Use  |  Contact  |  Site Map