I have spoken with Tom Perkins and Doug Ranck about the lack of adequate info on the "Milt's Wall, which I call THE LEANING WALL. I just want to clear up some of the confusion for everybody...
About 10 years ago, I posted 2 new climbs on what I called the MILT WALL in the local Trailhead Guidebook. The two routes were both rated 5.10c. THE MILT WALL is actually located on the north side and just above the second tunnel on the river road(371). The short steep crack on the left I called the LEFTOVER-5.10c, and the steep right-facing corner on the right I called the RIGHTOVER-5.10c. It has been a long time since I climbed at the MILT WALL but I remember it was steep, challenging and fun! Definitely worth it! Especially the RIGHTOVER.... So, when the ARKANSAS VALLEY ROCK CLIMBING GUIDEBOOK came out, it seemed obvious that someone had confused the 2 walls and that is how THE LEANING WALL has been mistakenly been coined "Milt's Wall". Even though my nickname is sometimes "Milt", I really think this wall should be called THE LEANING WALL.... Over the coarse of many(at least 10...)years, I have established 7 new routes here on THE LEANING WALL... The routes are described from left to right. The first 4 routes are on the left wall with the "Slab Tree" growing out of the middle of it, and the next 4 routes are on the right wall past the "Large Tree" that grows at the base of the steep overhanging wall. I would appreciate your opinions on the ratings that I post here.
This is what I think.....
THE LEANING WALL
(1) THE BRIEF SQUALL-5.7-mixed gear with 3 bolts/anchors at top. This is 2 routes to the left of the "Slab Tree" and starts in a left facing corner with a wide crack
(2) GOLDEN PLATE-5.9-mostly gear with 1 bolt or 5.10b(1 bolt steep start down left of the Slab Tree) Climb up past the Slab Tree to the "golden plate" and continue up the beautiful corner
(3) Classic Corner??-5.7- the obvious natural line to the right of the slab tree
(4) THE LEANING SEAM-5.10d-thin gear to the devious 1 bolt crux and then finish up the moderate crack/anchors at top. There is a 5.9R variation that avoids the bolted crux, leave the seam up and left on face edges and then finish up the moderate crack
(5) THE LEANING FACE-5.12A-6 bolts and then finish up the moderate crack/anchors at top (same as THE LEANING SEAM). Incredibly positive edges up the continuously overhanging face!
(6)THE LEANING CORNER-5.11b- mostly gear with an airy 1 bolt crux to finish/anchors above(shared with the next 2 routes). Airy!
(7)THE LEANING FLAKE-5.10c-mixed gear with 3 bolts/anchors above. Three 5.10 cruxes...
(8)THE LEANING CRACK-5.10d/11a-the obvious crack on the far right side of the wall. Steep,pumpy and exposed start... This line could have easily been climbed years ago... I first climbed it at least 10 years ago. I just remember cleaning loose flakes and blocks that seemed like no one had been there before. ???