All Things Climbing

Bolt Upgrades

Mike Soucy — 2008-05-27T15:18:10Z

Route climbers left of Carter Classic

Kip Davis and I replaced nine bolts, two sets of belay anchors, added one bolt to first pitch. Begin on slab left of Carter's, look for first bolt about 30ft. up. Climb slab towards the right side of the big huge flake above. Turn bulge onto flake at a bolt (this is the new one). Climb flake to top, 2 metolius rap anchors. P2 Follow three bolts up and right over bulge, finish in R-facing corner to second new anchor. P3 Climb past 4 bolts up and right through undercling, really fun. Finish at the top of Carter's dihedral at three bolt anchor. Bring blue alien to #2 camalot, a few mid-sized wires, two ropes. Does anyone know anything about the history of this route? It has great rock, fun slab climbing, probably around 10a. Doing this and Carter's makes the ride out and hike up to Davis Face very worthwhile. Thanks to Kip, as he supplied most of the hardware. Have fun!

Bob's Rock Vandalism

Smalls — 2009-09-30T22:03:54Z

Some of you may have noticed that in the past couple of months the Forest Service has made several improvements to the area around Bob's Rock--putting in a fence to channel parking, lining out some boulders with camping signs to curtail camping at the base of the rock, and more clearly defining the access trail at Bob's Rock.

In the 6-7 weeks since these improvements have been made, the fence has been vandalized at least 3 different times. Bob's is a popular climbing area--one that gets a lot of impact--and as climbers I think it is our duty to help the Forest Service manage the impact of this area. It seems as though the vandalism is happening mostly in the evenings and on the weekends. The Forest Service has asked me to keep my eye out for vandalism at Bob's and pass along any info to them. I would like to ask you all to help me. If you see anything or know anything, please let me know and I will pass it along to the Forest Service. Your identity will certainly remain anonymous.

Thanks for helping to protect our public lands.

Amy Smallwood

Adventure Program Director

Noah's Ark Whitewater Rafting

Rainbow Rock

Brushman — 2009-01-18T17:39:07Z

There are some new developments at the forefront, with the railroad property that includes the North half of Rainbow Rock and the climbing areas being sold and new No Trespassing signs being posted at the access points for the climbs and bouldering traverse in the last month. As I best understand it, a couple from South Park (Hartsel) has purchased the land from the railroad bridge South to the McMurry property and intends to build a lodge or large home there. They are currently negotiating with Union Pacific for crossing rights. Part of their intention is to work with the commercial concerns regarding the climbing, but things are going to change. Until there is more information or a dialog started with the new owners, we all need to respect the new signage and make sure we police ourselves, regarding permission to use this area. I have only met them once, but they seem like good people and sound willing to work with the climbing community.

Climbing at Camp Hale

Doug Ranck — 2008-12-26T03:16:06Z

Hi there all. I had a friend check out the climbs in question and he said that he was able to climb "I'll Pack It" and said mostly the same thing. If you skirt the crux it goes at a hard 10, but if you pull through the crux then it ought to be 11a, not 11b, so it will be down rated to 11a. Piton Power Wall has some tough climbs on it and I would bet that you missed a hold or two and maybe a foot in trying to get established above the seam. In the course of having fun, you should chalk it up as a learning experience and the next time you are there it may not be so difficult. Also just in case, bring some extra feet and hands.

climb hard and have fun.

Hello World! Top 5 "Must Do" Routes in the BV Area

Doug Ranck — 2008-12-19T03:27:27Z

1. A Boys Tool Is Never Dull, 10b, Tool Wall

2. Blood Brother, 10c, Dark Tower

3. Wild Tilly, 10c, Pleasure Dome

4. Smack and Spray, 11c Turtle Rock, NW Buttress

5. Ape Factor, 11c/d, Wall Street Gully

South Cottonwood Ice

Doug Ranck — 2008-12-11T04:58:11Z

The ice hose has formed up and it is looking good from the road. This is in the gully to the east of Cottonwood Lake and sorry but right now I do not remember the name of it. There was no snow on the road as of Sunday and no snow on the approach up to the ice. We did get some snow on Monday night December 8th. The ice was a light blue color so it should be solid.

Have fun climbing

The Roost

Doug Ranck — 2008-10-30T04:41:40Z

Hi Sean,

Yes you were on The Roost, on the route called Crow Pie at 11 a/b, it is a great line. Thanks for the compliment on the area, it is a great place to climb and wonder around in too. I believe the routes are listed from right to left on The Roost. Sorry there are no pictures at this time with specific detail and route descriptions, watch for the upcoming new guide book. You will have to go by the details in the new route sections, check on all of the years.

Climb hard and have fun,

Doug

What is the hardest climb in Buena Vista?

Doug Ranck — 2008-10-30T04:29:00Z

I vote for the crack on the east side of Elephant Rock and the Andy Brown route on the Y crack wall for starters. This makes 2 climbs that are real hard.

Strawberry Jams

Doug Ranck — 2008-07-03T16:16:02Z

Brent,

I know that it is still off limits to acces this property even if you know the owner. They do not want anyone on their property. And I do know that if you get caught, they have you arrested for trespassing or they just shot their guns at you. Strawberry Jam Rock was a great place to climb, maybe some day access will open to it.

Climb hard and have fun.

Doug

Castle Rock Gulch climbing?

Brushman — 2008-05-26T22:18:18Z

I have been climbing up there since 1987. The castle rock area has had limited and contentious attention in the past 20+ years. Most of the climbs on the South tower above the county road, were put up in the mid 80's, during the Matt Beckelhymer/Jim Page era of 1/4 inch bolts and cold shuts. The others are probably Andy Brown projects from that same time. Many of these disappeared after they loosened or just got too old to trust. In recent years, the RMOC and several front range groups have been using the top rope anchors there, as well as some of the rocks and towers further north on the ridge for their commercial trips. This area, known as the "Wild Granites" used to have a page in the Trailhead guidebook, but it was taken out or lost in the late 80's. As I remember it, the page described several trad climbs and contained a plea for no bolting in the area. For years, this was honored and it became a nice quiet place to go and get away from the crowds until the late 90's. At that time, several commercial ventures began using the area and developed several slabs with routes, anchors, and a guidebook that was kept to their company's stash. Over the next several years, bolts were put in and often chopped just as quickly, while traffic increased. Conflicts of interest between large groups and nesting raptors (notably falcons across the ravine from one of the slabs) continued, until 2004, when I went in with Alan Robinson of Friends of 4 Mile and Mike Sugaski from the Forest Service. It was determined at that time that the birds deserved a break (ala Boulder's Flatirons & Eldo)and the commercial venue that had been developed in the riparian area was questionable, but would be allowed to remain. With a few exceptions, the bolting halted in the nesting area and the climbers have stayed on the Southern and Western areas during nesting season (May-late July). While little has been done to firm up a policy so far, the commercial use continues in some areas, anchors keep coming and going, and the place could really use some of us to champion it's protection and thoughtful development.